TVR 3000S (Convertible)

Restoration (November 2001)

TVR Vixen S3 Reliant Scimitar GTE SE5A  TVR 3000S  Jaguar XJS 5.3 HE  Other Classics 
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I left the doors on the car so that when the body was lifted they would help the body stop flexing in the middle by giving the sides more strength. I undid the bolts that hold the body to the chassis, 2 in each foot well, 4 where the seat belts fix to the floor, 2 where the seat belts mount to brackets in the rear arches (I also removed the seat belt mounting brackets from where they attach to the chassis behind the rear shock absorber) and 2 in front of the petrol tank. They all undid fairly easily. I then invited my brother-in-law Graham and my nephew Tom round to help with the lifting off of the body. Tony Hall, who is restoring his M, suggested I disconnect the handbrake so that it could be moved to a vertical position prior to body removal as you have to lift the back of the car up and then back (you can rest it on the chassis tube that runs across the back behind the rear of the seats) as the front can't be lifted vertically because the foot well flares out into the chassis where the chassis widens to fit round the engine. With the back of the car resting on the rear chassis tube the front can then be lifted up vertically and moved to it's storage location. The chassis is in much better condition than I had expected with the only real problem being the front outriggers which have been recently patched (not very well) and still have holes in them even after the patching. The back of the chassis, where the body rests on it and is cushioned with some felt from new, showed hardly any sign of rust and has most of the original paint which I was pleased about. The plates that the body fixes to had a lot of mud on them but they aren't too badly rusted

I have also removed the prop. shaft and gearbox. I did find 2 of the 4 gearbox mounting bolts to the chassis had dropped out and were missing and one of the others was very loose so I will I replace them with some lock nuts on reassembly. The front U/J on the prop is extremely stiff and notchy so I will replace that too. There was a small screw in each yolk of the U/J's that you can remove and replace with a grease nipple so that grease can be pumped in. By the amount of grease that I managed to pump in I don't think they could have had much left. When I removed the handbrake I could see that the rod that goes back from the handbrake lever to the adjusters had been rubbing on something and was worn over halfway through. I shall have to build this up with some weld and try and work out what it has been rubbing against. The rear copper brake pipes seem OK so they will probably be reused like the front. I have also started scraping off lots of oil and mud from the chassis around the diff. The rear of the chassis seems to be in good condition with most of the original paint still in tact and just some minor rust pitting in places probably helped by the thick coating of oil. The diff oil breather is blocked (in fact I could hardly see it for mud and oil) so this is probably why there is so much oil around the rear of the chassis.